In a follow-up to my previous visit to Thurrock, I continue down river to the Thames Estuary, where I ride covered and open top buses in and around Southend, catching up on recent service changes in the process.

Bus Map for Southend showing changes to services from June 2026. One of a series produced by Travel Essex on behalf of Essex County Council including routes of all operators. Copies were seen posted at principal bus shelters in the area together with the latest stop specific departure times, although a comprehensive timetable booklet which would assist users to understand the new network was not available.

Overview of Bus Operators in Southend

Arriva Southend is one of the two principal operators in the city, having its origins in Southend Corporation Transport, which was renamed Southend Transport in 1974 and becoming a limited company in 1986. It was sold by the council to the British Bus Group in 1993, which in turn was taken over by the Cowie Group and renamed Arriva in 1998. The original garage was closed and demolished in 2000, with a new one constructed nearby. Currently, the fleet consists of 16 double deck and 41 single deck vehicles.

First Essex is the second major operator in Southend, which arose from an amalgamation of Eastern National and Thamesway Buses, both originally being part of the Eastern National Omnibus Company. Becoming part of the National Bus Company, the ENOC was privatised in a management buyout in 1986 and sold to Badgerline in 1990, who in turn became part of First Group in 1995. The main company depot in the area is at Hadleigh, which operates around 60 vehicles.

Initially, Arriva and First kept mainly to their traditional local and “out of town” services respectively, but the advent of competition in the privatised era has seen more of an overlap and incursions into each other’s territory.

Smaller operators in Southend are Stephensons and NIBS, with Ensignbus operating the seasonal Open Top service along the seafront between Leigh-on-Sea and Shoeburyness.

Arriva Southend DB300 Wright Gemini no 4468 at Southend Bus Station before my return run on it to Shoeburyness and back on Route 2. This is the principal home of the type, although odd ones pop up on other local routes.

This is one of a batch of 10 of the type formerly with Arriva Liverpool now split between Southend & Colchester depots and is essentially a provincial version of the Arriva London DW type with some styling differences.

Arriva 2: Southend - Shoeburyness - Southend

My day began at Southend Central Bus Station, convienently located in the city centre, before most of the shops opened on a Saturday morning. As I had an hour and a half before the first “Open Top” bus of the day, there was sufficient time to fit in a round trip on local route 2 to Shoeburyness and back. Operated by Arriva, mainly with double deckers, this is a frequent route running every 10 mins M-F daytimes, 15 mins Sat daytimes and 30 mins Sun daytimes / M-S evenings.

Despite the relatively early hour, there were a few takers for the next departure, which was in the hands of DB300 Wright Gemini no 4468, one of several based at Southend previously with Arriva Liverpool and very similar to the DW type operated in London but with slightly different body styling. There was a small diversion in and out of town due to roadworks at the inner end of Southchurch Road, but we looped around to the south and soon regained line of route. A straight run to Southchurch “White Horse” PH where we paused for a couple of minutes due to early running. Then on through suburban housing to Bournes Green and Thorpe Bay Station, before a few twists and turns brought us to Shoebury ASDA. From here, it was just a few more stops to the terminus at North Shoebury, The Renown, not a pub but a shopping and neighbourhood centre, a little to the north of Shoeburyness itself.

After a stand time of around 10 minutes, I reboarded for the return trip to Southend, which was much busier than the outward run, during which we were treated to a game of musical chairs between a wheelchair and a large buggy in order to get both on board! Eventually, all was sorted out and we continued back into the city centre, picking up at most stops. A time of about 1 hour for the rounder, including the break at the outer end.

***Ensignbus Volvo B9TL Open Top no 367, named “Butterscotch Breezer”, is seen at Southend Pier before commencing its first journey of the day on Route 99 to Leigh-on-Sea with me on board.***

*The second Open Topper behind in standard Ensignbus livery was being used as the spare bus and drivers’ rest room. Despite the early clouds, the day turned out bright and warm.*

Ensignbus 99: Southend - Leigh-on-Sea

Back at Southend, it was time to head for the Pier for Open Top Bus Route 99. Southend Pier is 1.33 miles long, making it the longest pleasure pier in the world. The original timber pier began construction in 1829 and was replaced by an iron one in 1889. The Southend Pier Railway, opened in the early 1890s, was the first pier railway in the country and still operates today, although there have been periods of closure due to wartime, deterioration and a number of fires. I had ridden the line on at least three previous occasions, so did not do so again this time, particularly as there was a long queue when I looked!

Instead, I concentrated on the latest incarnation of the traditional seafront service which has operated in Southend during most years over many decades. Originating as a Southend Corporation seasonal service, the current route is run by Ensignbus using a fleet of 4 Volvo B9TLs branded as various ice cream flavours - see below for picture and descriptions. For the 2026 season, buses run every 30 mins between about 0930 and 1830, dates of operation being 23rd-31st May and 18th July - 6th September.

The first westbound working from the Pier was formed by fleet no 367, in a light brown livery as the “Butterscotch Breezer”. The helpful driver allowed me to board before the scheduled departure time and was armed with a plentiful supply of leaflets, as were two other staff members who were manning the stop and changeover point. Just behind, a second Open Topper in standard Ensignbus livery was acting as the spare bus and rest room. Only 2 other passengers, a mother and child, joined us for the trip, boarding shortly before we were due to leave at 10.00.

Bang on time, we were off and rumbling along the Western Esplanade with the Thames Estuary to our left and the attractive Cliff Gardens to our right. As this was low tide, a vast expanse of sand and mud was visible, as is usual here. Passing the famous Rossi Ice Cream Parlour at Cliffs Pavillion, we continued along the seafront through Westcliff, before swinging inland briefly at Chalkwell. Looping back round to to the estuary, we served Chalkwell Station before entering the long one-way loop at Leigh-on-Sea. Making our way through Old Leigh, we reached Leigh Station, end of the first leg of the journey.

Cover of the leaflet advertising Ensignbus Open Top Route 99, which contains the timetable, a map and details of fares. Copies were available in racks on the buses and were being given out by drivers.

The route number “99” is a play on the ice cream of that name, with the four usual buses each in a different colour and “flavour” - red (Strawberry Streamliner), green (Mint Choc Cabriolet), blue (Bubblegum Beachcomber) and brown (Butterscotch Breezer).

Ensignbus 99: Leigh-on-Sea - Shoeburyness

After the scheduled 5 min break at Leigh Station, we continued on, making our way uphill with good views of the Thames Estuary and the distant Kent shoreline. Then a sharp right turn along Marine Parade and through Leigh Broadway, where we picked up a total of 5 more at various stops. Completing the loop, we traced the reverse of our outbound route back through Chalkwell and Westcliff, attracting another 2 customers on this stretch. Arriving back at Southend Pier, we had a driver change during another built-in 5 min “hesitation”, which seemed unusual after just half a rounder!

Soon, we departed on the eastern prong of the route, passing under the Pier and along Marine Parade, with its traditional “penny” arcades and close to the Kursaal. Opened in 1901, this famous domed building was one of the world’s first purpose-built amusement parks. After closing in 2020 and falling into disrepair, the council have assigned a new lease to an operator who is currently restoring the building as a leisure destination. We dropped 3 passengers on this section and 1 more as we approached Thorpe Bay, leaving 5 on board plus me to continue across Shoebury Common to Uncle Tom’s Cabin, a well known purveyor of various foods and seaside delights such as ice cream. Then, we turned inland along Ness Road to come into Shoeburyness, terminating at Rampart Terrace adjacent to the East Beach. This is quite literally at the end of the estuary, with views of the English Channel beyond. The name Shoeburyness means “fortress at the headland”, derived from “sceo” (shelter/cover) , “burh” (fortified place/borough) and “ness” (flat headland).

We had a scheduled 15 min layover here, so there was time for me to stretch the legs, although interestingly most of the other passengers stayed put on the bus to await the return trip!

A nearside view of no 367, the Butterscotch Breezer, on stand at Shoeburyness East Beach between trips on the 99, before I rode it back from here to Southend Pier. This bus was previously fleet no 37410 with First Bus, serving in Bristol & Manchester, before conversion to Open Top.

*Sneaking in behind is an Arriva Optare Versa on Route 9 (Shoeburyness - Rayleigh).*

Ensignbus 99: Shoeburyness - Southend

Only one further passenger boarded at Shoeburyness for the trip back to Southend and that was it for this trip. Back through the town to Shoebury Common, where we rejoined the road along the shore all the way to Southend. Passing along Thorpe Esplanade, I recalled how as a very young child I walked along here in company with my mother and grandmother on a day out when a sudden gust of wind blew my plastic mac out of my hand and into a nearby garden, my grandmother having to knock on the door of the house in order to retrieve it!

Soon we were back in Southend, where a traffic queue had now built up on approach to the Pier, although we weren’t delayed long and I alighted at the end of my round trip, which had taken just under 2 hours, although this included 25 mins worth of breaks. Whilst the schedule appeared to have plenty of slack in it and we weren’t rushing at any stage, one of the drivers informed me that on busier days, particularly when there are bikers’ rallies along the seafront, then the extra time is needed to maintain the schedule. Total passengers apart from me on the rounder amounted to just 10, although several also did the round trip or most of it and it was only the first day of the summer holidays, so usage will probably build in the coming weeks.

Arriva began new Route 1X between Southend & Canvey (Leigh Beck) on 1st June 2026, when First Essex withdrew their 27 between the same points. The route operates on a partial limited stop basis and runs direct via Essex Way between Hadleigh & Benfleet, resulting in a faster journey time than the former 27.

Double deckers are normally used, like Enviro400 MMC no 6515, which celebrates the granting of City status to Southend in 2022, which was given as a tribute to the late local MP David Amess who was murdered in 2021 and had campaigned for this designation.

Arriva Route 1X: Southend - Canvey

Service Changes from 1st June 2026 saw First Essex withdraw their long-standing link between Southend & Canvey Leigh Beck provided by Route 27, diverting it to operate between Canvey & Hullbridge via Rayleigh instead, although the less frequent (and longer) Route 21 between Southend & Canvey Newlands remains.

However, at the same time, Arriva introduced new Route 1X between Southend & Canvey Leigh Beck, operating via a more direct route and on a partial limited stop basis. On the plus side, the 1X offers an overall end to end time of 65-70 mins, around 10-15 mins quicker than the previous 27 did. The down side is that the 1X only runs every 30 mins M-S daytimes (was 20 mins on the 27) and there is no evening or Sunday service, unlike the previous arrangements. I would like to think that, if the new route is successful, a frequency increase and evening plus Sunday service may be added in due course.

Arriva have obtained 5 relatively new (“21 reg”) Wright StreetDeck Ultroliners previously with Ensignbus for the new service, painting them in a special blue and yellow livery with red stripe and suitable signwriting showing the points served, although other double deckers from the Southend fleet often help out. Returning to the Central Bus Station in Southend, I saw fleet no 6000 undergoing a driver change on the stand, so boarded with around 10 others for the next trip.

Unlike the former 27, the 1X proceeds out of town along the seafront, looping around from the Bus Station to the Pier and providing the only all-year-round service along this section. At Chalkwell, we turned inland and then left onto the main London Road, which is followed through Leigh to Hadleigh, serving only principal stops over this part of the route. Upon reaching the roundabout beyond Hadleigh Bus Depot, we turned into Benfleet Road, which continues into Essex Way, passing some big houses and a short countrified downhill stretch before arriving into South Benfleet. This “cuts the corner off”, saving some time, although some school journeys (numbered 1S) still use the former longer route via London Road and Kents Hill Road.

At Benfleet Station, a short pause to await our scheduled departure time, then we were off onto Canvey Island across the causeway which links it to the “mainland”. As we entered the island, a large number of horse & carriage riders (known locally as pony & trap racers) were coming the other way. These events are quite frequent in the area and divide opinion between those who see it as continuing a tradition which adds some local colour and those who see it as disruptive to other traffic and with breaches to the highway code sometimes in evidence. Luckily, there were no delays in our direction of travel and we continued on the long and winding course through the island, serving the Sports Centre and various estate roads before arriving into the High Street, where most alighted.

A few more short-riders joined us in Canvey Town Centre for the run out to Leigh Beck, passing on the way the Canvey Island Transport Museum, based in the former small Eastern National depot and housing a collection of buses mainly relevant to the local area, with occasional Running Days held. This was not an Open Day, so the doors were firmly shut and we continued onto the final stop, arriving after a trip of 65 mins from Southend, a decent run. Passengers numbers just into double figures for most of the journey, although hopefully usage will build as people become aware of the new and quicker links provided.

***Arriva also acquired 5 Wright StreetDeck Ultroliners from Ensignbus for the 1X, painting them in this attractive special livery with suitable signwriting for the service.***

*First of the batch, no 6000, is seen at Canvey Leigh Beck after I had travelled aboard it from Southend Bus Station.*

First Essex Enviro400 no 34455 on Route 27 at Canvey Leigh Beck before I rode it to Hullbridge, to where the route was diverted from Southend with the June Service Changes, replacing the Rayleigh - Hullbridge section of the 20, except during evenings. Whether there is a demand for a direct service between Canvey & Rayleigh / Hullbridge in preference to Southend is a moot point!

This bus is former Arriva London T110, still with its old fleet number in the driver’s cab and one of a batch of 9 based at First Essex Hadleigh Depot. Most are still in this attractive two tone green “Essex Bus” livery.

First Essex 27: Canvey - Hullbridge

At Leigh Beck, as there was around 25 mins to my next bus, I had time for a quick stroll to the nearby breakwater, with views of the Thames Estuary. In addition to the locals fishing or walking the dogs, I observed a couple of traditional Thames sailing barges passing by. These flat-bottomed vessels with their unusual shaped distinctive red sails were specially adapted for the shallow waters of the estuary and were originally for transporting goods, although a number have been preserved for leisure usage.

Returning to the Bus Stop, I turned my attention to First Essex for my next ride, taking a trip on the rerouted 27 to Hullbridge as referred to earlier. A 20 min frequency applies M-F daytimes, 30 mins Sat/Sun daytimes and M-S evenings, Hourly Sun evenings. The M-S evening service runs only between Canvey & Rayleigh, the former Route 20 being retained in the evenings over the Rayleigh - Hullbridge section, except on Sun eves when the 27 runs through.

The 27 is mainly double deck and I had “classic” Enviro400 no 34455, one of a batch previously with Arriva London as their T110, as the former fleet number still proclaimed on the driver’s cab roof sill when I boarded. Neatly single-doored and with the seats now covered in grey vinyl. Whilst one or two of the type have been repainted into the new First corporate livery, most (including this one) retain the attractive two tone green “Essex Buses” scheme (at least for now).

We departed with just a couple of us on board in hot pursuit of an Arriva 1X, which we followed to Canvey High Street and on via the estate roads through the island, then back over the causeway to Benfleet Station, where we paused for a couple of minutes to await our correct time. We then departed and turned left at the pleasant little church of St Mary South Benfleet, which dates back to the 12th Century in parts. Continuing up to the Library, we had to stop for a few minutes whilst the pony & traps seen earlier passed us in the other direction. Then it was up Kents Hill Road to London Road, hanging a right through Thundersley and a brief wooded stretch before arriving at Hadleigh Roundabout opposite the First Bus Depot.

From here, we were onto the new section of route, swinging sharp left into Rayleigh Road. By now, we had regained our correct time and continued up to Rayleigh Weir and then into the town itself, picking up and dropping off along the way. From this point, we were onto the former Route 20, which we followed past Rayleigh Station and out of town over a mix of suburban and open sections into Hullbridge. We terminated at “The Anchor” PH after a run of 65 mins from Canvey, but I think I was the only one doing the full route, although a few did make use of the “round the corner” link between Canvey & Rayleigh. There seemed to be some disquiet amongst local passengers on the Rayleigh - Hullbridge section, who were bemoaning the loss of their former through link to/from Southend on the 20, with few seeming to want a bus to Canvey instead!

Route 20 was the traditional and long-standing route between Southend & Hullbridge, illustrated here by First Essex Trident Plaxton President no 33095 at Southend Bus Station back in April 2021. This bus was former First London TNL33095 and was one of a batch of the type that made Hadleigh Depot their new home, although all have since been withdrawn.

With the June 2026 Service Changes, the 20 is reduced to just a few M-S evening journeys, passengers at other times now having to use the 25 between Southend & Rayleigh and the rerouted 27 between Rayleigh & Hullbridge.

Part First Essex 27: Hullbridge - Rayleigh

A break of over 20 mins at Hullbridge provided the opportunity to walk down past the pub to the River Crouch, from where a ferry used to run to South Woodham Ferrers on the other bank. A pleasant spot, with footpaths enabling hikes each way beside the river, whilst swans competed with small boats on the water.

After the layover, I rejoined the same bus with half a dozen other takers, to travel the short distance back to Rayleigh Station, where I alighted 15 mins later.

***My only single decker of the trip was Arriva Optare Versa no 4256, seen here at Rayleigh Station before riding it back to Southend on Route 1.***

A few double deckers appear on the 1 during the week, although it was totally single deck on the day I travelled, a Saturday. Note the length of the vehicle, which is possibly the longest version of this type.

Arriva 1: Rayleigh - Southend

To end my day, I reverted to Arriva and their Route 1 from Rayleigh Station to Southend. The frequency is every 12 mins M-F daytimes, 15 mins Sat daytimes and 30 mins M-S eves & Sun daytimes, Hourly Sun eves. During the week, a few double deckers support the mainly single-deck allocation, but it seemed that on this Saturday at least, it was entirely single deckers in charge. Arriva Southend has a large fleet of Optare Versas and I had fleet no 4256, a particularly long example.

Departing from Rayleigh Station with a few already on board, we circumnavigated the town, picking up more on the way. Arriva operate several services between Rayleigh & Southend - the 1 via Hadleigh, the 7 & 8 via Rochford and the 9 via Eastwood - and I saw examples of these as we left Rayleigh. In our case, we continued back to Rayleigh Weir as per the 27 before deviating in a dog-leg through Thundersley Village and along Kenneth Road to London Road, before approaching Hadleigh from the west. Past the First Bus Depot and then a straight run to Southend, passing Hadleigh Church and then a brief section of open fields before reaching development again at Leigh-on-Sea. From here, we took the inland “main road” route through Chalkwell and Westcliff into Southend, arriving back at the Bus Station after a trip of exactly 1 hour from the start. Over the Hadleigh - Southend section, Arriva 1 competes with First 28, which provides a frequent service between Basildon & Southend.

My ride on the 1 reminded me of a previous trip on it back in the late 80s, when Southend Transport (as it was then) operated a fleet of ex LT Routemasters on various local routes and I spent a day tracking them down in the area. Happy memories to end the day!

Watton

Topless and Tripping in Southend

Flying the Blue & Silver Ensign